PERU
28th November 2001
18,000 km

The first 8 days I battled very strong headwinds along the desert coastal strip of Peru where the sea meets the Andes.  I felt ill the first week but on the 9th day I cycled 283km to make the record for the trip.

You get a feel for a country as soon as you cross the border. The border town was crowded with people.....and their livestock.  We changed our money to the local currency with the street vendors...and were given a few "falsa" notes. We found this out 2 days later when Taare handed over some counterfeit money to the petrol pump attendant for fuel and he was told to wait there while the man ring the police....but Taare didn't hang around to greet local law enforcement.  He has been pulled over 22 times and counting in Peru, by some good police......... and some not so good police, some ask for money or bribes but Taare asks them for a donation for the cancer kids and the cops drive off quick smart. The van had 2 blowouts in 1 day... and it was a Sunday when the tire dealer was closed so we bought a tire off a local mans car.  Then a landslide stopped the van for 2 hours while a crew were removing a large rock off the road by using dynamite and blowing it up, ! but I had just passed before the slide had happened to make up some good yardage.   And we were woken by a earthquake the other night.

We found some hidden treasures...2 coastal towns off the main road that aren't on the maps. I was told by 1 local that I was the first gringo to visit their town. Our motel was hanging over a rugged cliff-face. The coastal road is amazing in some spots. Eating with the locals at night at the street food stands is a good way a learning our Spanish, but last night I addressed the woman cook "senorita", the lady laughed and Taare later told me that it usually means young girl or virgin.

well its off to Chile tomorrow.....fingers crossed. 

A. Botha